{"id":64216,"date":"2024-11-26T09:35:58","date_gmt":"2024-11-26T14:35:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/motorcyclemojo.com\/?p=64216"},"modified":"2024-12-16T20:39:58","modified_gmt":"2024-12-17T01:39:58","slug":"volcanic-fury-to-scenic-splendor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/motorcyclemojo.com\/2024\/11\/volcanic-fury-to-scenic-splendor\/","title":{"rendered":"Volcanic Fury to Scenic Splendor"},"content":{"rendered":"
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We talk about<\/strong> karma and hope our good deeds will be rewarded. About 10 kilometres south of Chain Lakes on Highway 22 we came across four Harley riders in trouble, one with a blown front tire. The two-inch slit in the sidewall was unpluggable, so we helped push the trike to the northbound shoulder where they waited for a tow truck. Was it a karmic event?<\/p>

We had left Calgary that morning encouraged that, in July of 2023, it was safe in our post-Covid world to make the U.S. a travel destination once more. Having heard about the roads around Mount St. Helens, we made the area a focal point of the trip. Kyle Gwilliam, John Ritz, Keith Tully and I met at a local gas station, where we admired John\u2019s new tires. The last two years left us searching for a bike shop to replace John\u2019s worn-out rear with close to 1,000 km to go before home. John was not going to make it three times. <\/p>

We planned to spend the first night in Colville, WA, which was a little more than 600 km away. A 9 a.m. start gave us plenty of time to make the planned border crossing at Nelway on Highway 6 west of Creston, B.C., before the 8 p.m. closure stated on the web. <\/p>

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Border Woes<\/strong><\/p>

Highway 3 west of Creston goes through the Kootenay pass. Our plan to slip between the few dark clouds was only partially successful as we caught a few light showers. At the turn to the U.S. border at Nelway, we noticed a sign saying it closes at 4 p.m.; the local time was 3:52 with 10 km to go. Picking up the pace, we arrived at 4:01 to find barricades across the road. The Canadian side was still open and processing vehicles, but not a U.S. officer was in sight. <\/p>

Suffice it to say that, on a Friday afternoon, the U.S. crossing may close earlier than 4 o\u2019clock. To get all the barriers in place and close up shop would have taken a lot longer than a couple of minutes. Even if we had not played the good Samaritans with the Harley riders, I am not sure we would have made it. Karma must have had a different event in mind <\/p>

Our option was to travel west to cross the border south of Rossland and into Northport, WA. My GPS told me to take the Onion Creek Road to get to Colville. I usually argue with it but decided this might be a good time to follow directions. Finally, we found our karma at Onion Creek Road. While only having a 50-mph speed limit, it had a lot of tight turns for the next 40 km where it popped us out onto Hwy 395 only three kilometres from Colville.<\/p>

Roads Worth Exploring<\/strong><\/p>

The next morning we got an early start to Mount Vernon, a bedroom community of Burlington. We would be on Hwy 20 most of the way; a gorgeous road with a great section between Kettle Falls and Tonasket. The eastern half, before Republic, has more turns than the western half as it follows the contours of the mountainous terrain through the pine forest. If you have time to explore, there are several interesting secondary roads south of Hwy 20 between 97 and 25.<\/p>

Having been through that area before, we opted to stick to our chosen path. To pick up the next part of 20 you must travel down 97 from Tonasket to Okanogan. The exit is well-marked so no worries about finding it.<\/p>

Traffic was light to Winthrop, which is a town that emphasizes its Old West theme with preserved buildings and wooden boardwalks. The Mexican Grill & Cantina is a great choice for lunch. To say that the portions were generous would be an understatement.<\/p>

The next day, we headed out toward Mount Baker. Avoiding the Interstate meant we had to backtrack east on Hwy 20 to pick up Hwy 9 heading north, a pleasant two-lane road with a 50-mph speed limit for the first 50 km. The landscape became more open as acreages changed to farms and the speed limit rose to 55. From Sumas you head east to 542, which takes you into the park and dead ends on Mount Baker.<\/p>

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Snow at Higher Elevations<\/strong><\/p>

The scenery changes quickly from open farmland to dense forest and
at times it was like going through a tunnel with branches joining from each side over our heads. In other places, the morning sun coming through the trees created a strobe-like effect betwixt the sun and shadows. Not too long after you enter Baker National Forest, the climbing begins.<\/p>

This is not a road for the novice rider as it\u2019s ripe with frequent switchbacks of 10 to 15 mph turns. The trees become shorter and farther apart with rising elevation, which improves the visibility. We took advantage of some parking areas on the way up to get commemorative photos of the trip. The last parking lot was surrounded by snow even though we were in the second week of July.<\/p>

Our descent found a noticeable difference in the pavement quality between the uphill and downhill lanes. The downhill side is subject to frost heaves and broken pavement from erosion and tree roots. It is enough to make you divide your attention between the road right in front of your tires and the road further ahead. We would find much worse roads later in the trip so in hindsight I would classify it as taking a little extra care.<\/p>

Change of Plans<\/strong><\/p>

Chehalis looked like a good spot to stay to line ourselves up for the next day\u2019s ride. Staying with Hwy 9, we could ride parallel to the Interstate well south of Seattle. Unbeknownst to us, the farther south you go, the denser the bedroom communities become. Sunday afternoon traffic was heavy, and we sat through some lights for a couple of rotations before continuing. I\u2019m sure we would have eventually gotten through, but the wiser choice seemed to be to head over to the Interstate.<\/p>

What I had assumed was a point south of Seattle turned out to be about 20 miles north, where the traffic became stop-and-go as I-5 passes through the middle of Seattle. I can only imagine how bad it would be on a workday.<\/p>

The next morning was time to explore the northwest corner of Oregon. There was about 60 km of the I-5 before we turned off at Longview. The road to Astoria is quite scenic, but for a motorcycle rider, it\u2019s not the most interesting. In Astoria, we pulled into a parking lot to don raingear, and an older fellow pulled up beside us to ask us about our trip. I showed him the map of our planned route where he pointed out where he would ride his Harley. He also advised that the road on the west side of Mount St. Helens was closed due to a mudslide and wasn\u2019t planned to open until the fall. Change of plans!<\/p>

From Astoria, we followed the coastline around to U.S. 101 and enjoyed off-and-on showers in heavy traffic to Seaside, where we switched to U.S. 26 heading back east. Our friendly local had warned us of a bad drop in the pavement near Jewell Junction that \u201ccould launch the unwary well off the seat of the bike.\u201d Either it was repaired or the uneven pavement he was referring to indicated he needed new shocks on his Harley.<\/p>

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K.I.S.S.<\/strong><\/p>

Further east, we turned north on Veronia Road, which becomes Hwy 202. While the pavement was not great, the heavily treed, winding two-lane road was quite enjoyable and we followed it into Clatskanie, where we stopped for lunch.<\/p>

Coming into town, we noticed John\u2019s brake light wasn\u2019t working. As luck would have it, we were parked right in front of a hardware store and so underneath the bike we crawled. After a while a hardware store clerk came out to tell us he used to be a Kawasaki tech and John\u2019s Vulcan had a sealed LED unit; not a bulb like we had originally assumed. He had replaced quite a few in his day and noted that it would likely be a special order. After further investigation we deduced that the fuse was burnt out. Our 45-minute parking lot repair could have been completed in five minutes. Note for next time: cover the simplest solution first!<\/p>

We headed up to Hwy12 over to Randle, our stop for the night before Mount St. Helens. The road to the east side of Mount St. Helens, NF25, was just a few hundred metres from the hotel. At the junction, we found a sign saying the road to Cougar was closed. Change of plans again.<\/p>

We pressed on to NF99 to see one of the main attractions for our trip. The pavement quality deteriorated drastically after only 10 km. Frost heaves and deep potholes kept our speed down as we tried to pick the smoothest line between all the hazards.<\/p>

Tricky Road Construction<\/strong><\/p>

After 25 km, we came across the first of many areas of road construction: this one with a 50-metre patch of gravel. A few kilometres beyond that, we found a 30-metre-long excavation in the road with load of fresh clay that had been placed where traffic was permitted. A worker told us they had made a slope at each end for vehicles to enter and exit. It was sharp enough that I couldn\u2019t see the \u201cramp\u201d until I was at the edge of the pavement, only to discover a very steep drop.<\/p>

Midway across, I needed to throttle up to keep forward momentum and an extra burst to climb out the other side. Kyle was the last to cross on his Harley and with three of us crossing before him the clay was chewed up, making it a difficult rut to negotiate. Fortunately, that was the worst of it. When we reached NF99 we noticed a vast improvement in pavement quality and, with sighs of relief, we started our climb.<\/p>

Above the tree line we reached the end of the trail, where an optional access road was closed. From the parking area there is a stairway with about a 300-foot vertical climb to the summit providing views of Mount St. Helens, including the lava flows. The views make it worth the climb. Even though the eruption was over 40 years ago, it\u2019s surprising how much hardened lava is still exposed without the slightest encroachment of plant life.<\/p>

And Still More Road Closures<\/strong><\/p>

After making our way back down to Randle, we backtracked west on 12 to connect on Hwy 7 heading north to the west entrance to Mount Rainier National Park. At the park gates we were informed of more road closures and were advised to seek a different route south of the park to Yakima. The road chosen meandered back and forth and eventually connected us back to 12 east of the park with a straight shot to Yakima.<\/p>

That evening, we discussed our route back to Calgary. The unexpected road closures left us farther east than we had originally planned. The intention of all our trips is to spend as much time on winding roads as possible and, logistically, to find a spot to stay at about the right distance each day. From Yakima, we could have easily spent day six getting us within a day\u2019s ride to Calgary, but we had more time, so we opted to spend some time covering some of the best motorcycle roads in B.C.<\/p>

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Another Change of Plans<\/strong><\/p>

Leaving Yakima, we let the GPS be our guide, which was helpful as the initial direction and road changes were not intuitive. Avoiding major highways, we headed to George and rode north, staying on secondary highways to Coulee City. From there, we followed 155 along Baird Lake, which leads up to the Grand Coulee Dam. The dam was a massive project,  with two power houses taking from 1933 to 1942 to complete. A third power house, constructed between 1967 and 1974, supplies more power than the first two combined.<\/p>

Interestingly, the third power house was part of the 1961 Columbia River Treaty between Canada and the U.S. that required three dams in Canada and one more in the U.S. to control flooding. Canada received some of the power production in return.<\/p>

Back in B.C.<\/strong><\/p>

Continuing north, we arrived in Osoyoos for the night. Summertime in Osoyoos is peak tourist season, and the hotel prices reflect the demand. The last time we were in Osoyoos the forest fires of 2021 had hit the surrounding hills with heavy smoke. The 2023 fires would not impact Osoyoos until a month after our stay, giving us clean air to breathe.<\/p>

With 600 km to Creston, it proved to be a long day with the ferries and plenty of winding roads. Heading east out of Osoyoos, the first 18 km climbs 700 metres on a series of switchbacks, which is the best part of the 48 km ride to Rock Creek. Highway 33 north to Kelowna is a pleasant road with sweepers all the way. Heading up Hwy 97 from Kelowna to Vernon is full of holiday traffic in the summer, but it is a necessary evil to get to Hwy 6.<\/p>

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The definitive B.C. motorcycle guide Destination Highways British Columbia<\/em> rates Hwy 6 as the second-
best motorcycle road in B.C. The best is Hwy 3A heading into Creston, which is how we planned to finish our day. The better part of Hwy 6 is from Lumby to Needles, where we caught the first ferry of the day. There are 110 km of constant curves to add to the enjoyment, but watch for cattle through the Monashees!<\/p>

We continued on Hwy 6 through Nakusp to New Denver, where we switched to 31A. The 80 km from New Denver to Kaslo is another highly rated section of road. It was now late afternoon with lighter traffic as we headed down to Kootenay Bay for our last ferry ride. By the time we got to 3A we were tired and may not have appreciated the quality of the road. At this point we were looking forward to parking the bikes for the night and getting a shower.<\/p>

On our last day, we opted to ride through Radium to Castle Mountain. The first 10 km after Radium has the tightest curves, but be wary of the speed-tax collectors as this area is frequently patrolled.<\/p>

After eight days on the road, we were anxious to get home and opted to stay on the TransCanada from the Johnson Canyon junction to Calgary. Another successful trip in the books! Despite not getting to do all the roads we planned around Mount St. Helens, we did get to see the aftermath of the unimaginable volcanic activity. We saw new areas and discovered some great motorcycle roads. Most importantly, John made it the whole way without requiring a new rear tire.\u00a0 MM<\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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